| When the time has come to paint your boat there are | | | | this point, or get the first undercoat on, and while it is |
| plenty of do's and don'ts to take into account. I have | | | | still fresh, go around and fill all the holes and |
| been a boat builder for 25 years and here is some | | | | imperfections you can see. I prefer to do the filling |
| advice on steps you can take to make this expensive | | | | after the undercoat as it is easier to see all the areas |
| procedure turn out for the best, without too much | | | | requiring attention. |
| stress and strain. | | | | Now ask the painter to spray or wipe on a "guide |
| Firstly, wash the boat from top to bottom to remove | | | | coat". This is thinners, or solvent, with a dark tint in it. |
| any salt residue, remove the mast and rigging and | | | | Once this is done your boat will look like the local gang |
| store these away. You may want to consider painting | | | | has just attacked it with graffiti, but that's okay |
| the mast at this time if required. Then lift the boat and | | | | because you get to sand it all off! We need to move |
| place into the paint shed and set up the scaffolding at | | | | to a finer grade of paper at this point, I suggest around |
| an easy height to work from. | | | | the 180 grade, and make sure it is "dri-lube" sheet |
| Go over the boat and decide if there is any gear that | | | | paper. On the hull sides we use paddle boards that |
| you don't want to put back on after the repaint, or any | | | | take a whole sheet of dri-lube. Paddle boards are |
| changes that you want to make. Do these before any | | | | roughly 300mmx200mm, made out of plywood, with a |
| paint is applied so that they can be faired in and made | | | | thin sponge foam on the face and a handle on the |
| to look like they were always meant to be there. | | | | back, to which you staple a whole sheet of dri-lube |
| Cover the top of the boat from toe-rail to toe-rail with | | | | paper. Once you have sanded the guide coat off, so |
| draping film so that you cover the entire deck area, | | | | that all you can see is undercoat, then it is time to dust |
| this will stop all the dust from getting on the deck and | | | | and clean ready for the next undercoat. Again, get the |
| into the interior of the boat. The clean up at the end will | | | | painter to check your sanding before he puts the next |
| be a big enough job as it is. It is now time to mask up | | | | undercoat on. All going well this will be the final |
| all the remaining fittings that you are not removing. It is | | | | undercoat. |
| hard to get tape to stick, once you get a layer of dust | | | | Once this next undercoat is on, again, check to see if |
| over things, without doing a major clean. The tape also | | | | any filling is required and do it if it is. Then another guide |
| gives some protection when you sand up close to the | | | | coat is needed and away you go with the sanding, this |
| fitting. | | | | time with around the 280 to 320 grade dri-lube. Once |
| Now it is time for the first sand, if you have access to | | | | you have finished and the painter is happy, it's time for |
| orbital sanders you can do this part, make sure you | | | | the top coat to be applied. |
| use a good respirator as the dust from this is not good | | | | Once the top coat is applied, the next step is to mark |
| for the lungs. It will need a good, hard sand with about | | | | out any boot top and stripes, for best results get |
| 80 grit paper. If this grit seems to take a long time to | | | | someone to do this with a laser level. Apply the |
| sand with, or clogs up very quickly, try a coarser | | | | sign-writing, if it is within any of the stripes. Then back |
| grade, say 60, or you may need to solvent wash the | | | | mask the boot top and stripes (back mask means |
| area to remove any wax or polish that may still be | | | | mask all the newly painted topsides leaving only the |
| there. You need to sand the entire surface until it is a | | | | stripe/boot top to be painted exposed) and sand with |
| matt finish with no shine showing, take particular care | | | | 280 to 320 grade paper, removing all the shine, then |
| to get right into all the corners and up to any fittings | | | | have the painter spray on the chosen colour. Warning: |
| etc. If you don't, then this is where the new paint won't | | | | Don't mask over fresh paint with plastic or draping film |
| stick well enough. Be sure to get the painter to check it | | | | as it holds the solvents in, softens the paint, and sticks |
| before applying the undercoat. | | | | the film to the new paint. Use plain brown paper. |
| The boat should be dusted down and washed with a | | | | When all this is hard you can now proceed to unmask |
| degreasing agent or wax remover just prior to painting | | | | the boat. When pulling the final tapes off, pull them |
| to make sure that any contamination from other | | | | back on themselves so as not to be pulling the new |
| chemicals or oils etc. is removed. You can go around | | | | paint off the job. Uncover all the deck as well then |
| the boat and spot fill any areas that need repairing at | | | | stand back and admire the new look! |