Maintenance & Tips
| Item to take care of | Method or Tip | Suggested by |
| Deck Jib Furler Access Hatch | The stock hatch tends to crack on the edges because it is very thin. A 1/4" Acrlyte hatch is constucted with radiused edges. Available in just about every color. | Richard Ray |
| Installing GPS on Nexus System | To have the Nexus Multi display repeat GPS info follow these steps. Make sure the GPS transmits NMEA 0183 (Most do) Set Nexus Calibration (C37 == OFF, C75 == OFF, C76 == OFF). Obtain the power/data cable for the GPS (This comes from the manufacturer of the GPS). West Marine has or can get cables for Garmin and Magellan GPS. Connect the red wire to pin #1 of the Nexus Server. Connect the black wire to pin #2 of the Nexus Server. Connect the signal out (NMEA +) to pin #9 of the Nexus Server. Connect pin #10 of the Nexus Server to pin #16 of the Nexus Server using a short jumper wire. Setup the GPS tp transmit NMEA Version 1.5 at 4,800 baud. With both Nexus on and the GPS on with the power/data cable connecting the two the Lat/Lon will display on the Navigate page on the Multi display. BTW and COG will also be available. |
Richard Ray |
| Placing Antrim 27 on trailer from hoist | When dry storing the Antrim 27 on the trailer without the intent to tow
any significant distance (i.e. over a few miles)... Using hoist hover boat over trailer about 2' back from the trailer bow winch. Attach winch strap to boat and tension. As the hoist operator moves the boat slightly forward tension the winch strap. This will guide the boat right where it needs to be on the trailer. To avoid chaffe do not bring bow snug into the bow roller on the trailer. Allow tensioned winch strap about 2" - 3" of length. Lower boat on trailer setting it on the bunks. If needed lower keel down on to keel bunk. |
Richard Ray |
| Sliding Hatch Security | The stock sliding hatch has one eye to place a lock through it. With a
little force and upward pressure the hatch slides forward even with a lock in place. To
correct this problem mount an eye bolt on the hatch/step 1/2" below the sliding hatch
in alignment with the eye. This will prevent the lock from being lifted and the sliding
hatch from going forward. Use a 1/2" eye bolt (WM#599225), cut the shaft length to
1/2" then recess the backing washer/bolt in the hatch/step. Fill recess hole
with silicon sealant. Of course the eye bolt will be facing down when the
hatch is used as a step. Click here for a picture. |
Carol Ray |
| Outboard Security | While the outboard locker can be locked from inside the Antrim 27 via the access cover far aft an easier solution to securing a gas tank and outboard is via a cable lock and installing a Wichard Watertight U-Bolt (WM#367386). Mount the eye just above the access cover. Run the cable through the motor, fuel tank and U-Bolt to stop thieves. | Carol Ray |
| Exterior Gelcoat surfaces - Hull and Underbody only. | An addendum to applying the 303 to the boat particularly under the waterline. McLube Dry lubricant is fantastic. West Marine sells it in a two quart container either liquid or aerosol. With cotton gloves on and with a couple of cotton polo rags wipe the complete. fifteen minutes later come back with a clean rag and wipe off. | John Shepard |
| Rudder Cover | The rudder cover is great for protecting
from sunlight and dings, but in stock format it only fits when the rudder is removed from
the boat. To allow it to cover while the rudder is installed - - Fold cover inside out. - Remove 24" of the forward vertical seam using a desticher. - re-hem the separated sides creating a split allowing the cover to slide around each side of the rudder. |
Steve Rienhart |
| Vang | Replace that difficult to use Spinlock vang with a Vangmaster. It supports the boom on a cushion of air. No noisy springs or interlock mechanisms to wear out. | Richard Ray |
| Keel Lubrication | The keel should be sprayed with silicone lube in the area at the keel expansion point, 18-18.5" or so below the underside of the keel plate. | USI Factory |
| Outhaul Cleat | The standard outhaul cleat will quickly destroy the outhaul line. Solution is a Ronstan RF-5 Pivoting base block with a cam cleat. Makes easy access to outhaul line. | John Shepard |
| Jib Halyard | Getting the feeder line tied with a knot to the wire jib halyard can be difficult. Use a very small diameter feeder line such as New England Ropes Kev-Kord 3/32" and it will slide much easier. | Richard Ray |
| Main Halyard Chaffe | Since the Antrim 27 does not have a tack pin to limit how
high the mainsail can be hoisted, it is quite easy to pull the halyard up too high.
Certainly if you are pulling it up until it stops, you are pulling it up to far, because
it is stopping when the halyard shackle hits the crane. This is not desirable, nor
is it the intended way to use the halyard. In use, the halyard shackle should be below the crane by 3 or 4 inches. You may want to put a mark on the halyard at the deck so you can tell when the head is in the proper position. |
Kame Richards |
| Outboard Noise | For outboards that have a removeable cover (i.e. Nissan 5) Apply some foil sided foam insulation (1/4" thick) to inside cover. Cut pieces to fit each side. About 9 square feet is all that is needed. Can be purchased at most hardware stores. About $1.00 a foot in 3 feet wide. Attach with 3M double sided tape. Total cost: ~$6. Compare with West Marine Outboard Noise Reduction Kit 372136 $54.49 . |
Richard Ray |
| Main Halyard Chaffe | Leather chafe Kit WM # 146704 Cut 5" and whip with waxed whipping twine to shackle end of main halyd. 1 piece has worked for #6 now for over 6 months and main halyard still in excelent condition. | John Shepard |
| Running Rigging String length, diameter, type and (Recommended Color) |
Spintack: 65’ of 5/16" Yale Maxibraid Plus. (Yellow/Blue tracer) Spinsheet: 70’ per side, 64’ of 3/8" Yale Light IC Spliced into 6’ of 3/16" spectra. Splice 3/16" spectra together, forming single tail to tie onto sail. (Red/Blue tracer) Rig Adjuster: 20’ of 5/16" Yale Crystalyne, core only eye splice to attach to becket. Stitch cover onto core just past eye splice. (red/yellow/orange/white) Runner tails: 8’ of 3/8" Yale Vizzion, with eye splice to attach to becket, IC spliced onto ΒΌ" Excel Marstron tails. (White/Purple tracer) Fine tune: 26’ of 5/16" XLS. (White/Blue tracer) Bowsprit: 40’ of 5/16" Yale Aramid T-85, with flemish reeving eye spliced in bitter end. (Red) All dimensions above are finished lengths, after splicing. Layline is the best source I know of for cut lengths, spliced and whipped, from different manufacturers. That is where Cascade sourced most of her strings. Would recommend the complete string package be ordered there (or somewhere else, depending on competitive bidding), with all splicing and whipping done. Layline contact: Henry Mallard (800) 542-5463 |
Steve Rienhart |
| Spreaders / Sail Chafe | Upper Spreaders - Tempo Spreader Boots T424 Lower Spreaders - Tempo Spreader Boots T426 |
Steve Rienhart |
| Sails / Fraying Rigging Tape | When taping cotter pins and rings, first place a large drop of clear silicone seal on the end of the cotter pin/ring. This silicone bead will prevent the sharp edge it is covering from cutting the tape from the inside. When the silicone is dry, then tightly tape fitting with self amalgamating rigging tape. Once taped, smear a thin film of the clear silicone on the tape to prevent the ends from unwrapping. | Steve Rienhart |
| Exterior Gelcoat surfaces - Hull and Underbody only. | 303 UV Protectant. Make sure all other wax or coatings are removed | John Shepard |
| Exterior Gelcoat surfaces - Keel, Rudder, Bottom | Silicon or Teflon based wax | Steve Rienhart |
| Keel Bulb | Sand with 100 grit. Click here for a
picture. Fill voids with Marine-Tex Putty. Click
here for a picture. Wet Sand with 220 grit to remove all brush marks and make super smooth. Click here for a picture. |
John Shepard |
| Bilge (Or that area under the floor boards) | Petit two-part Poly Poxy | John Shepard |
| Inside cockpit storage compartment and under the cockpit below | Dri Dek panels | John Shepard |
| Floor Boards (Teak and Holly soles) | 3 coats of West System epoxy, 2 coats of Teak Shield | John Shepard |
| Lower Front Mast | Simpson Lawrence Treadmaster Step Pads. Place two on to prevent knicks and scratches | John Shepard |
| Asymetrical Spinnakers | Tend to get caught in the angle formed between mast and
upper furler. To prevent damage: Rigging tape on pins in furler and any other sharp areas. Shock cord attached with hog rings streched across D-2's; one piece touching the front of the furler, tape the contact area to prevent wear, and another across the D-2's about 12'- 18' below will keep the spin. from getting caught. |
Bryce Griffith |
| Furler Tang Chaffe | In order to protect wear on the deck from the furler tang place 4.5" length of a 1-1/8" Davis Turnbuckle Boot over the front forestay tangs and just under the jib shackle, sitting top of the Harken furler and extends above deck about 3/4". | Steve Rienhart |
If you have a maintainance tip for the Antrim
27 please submit it by pressing here
